In London, Burberry treats itself to an opera by the sea


Originally scheduled for September 17, during London Spring/Summer 2023 collection week, the Burberry show was canceled to observe the ten days of national mourning following the death of Queen Elizabeth II, which occurred on Thursday, September 8. September. It was just a reprieve for designer Riccardo Tisci, who unveiled his new score on Monday, September 26, in London, when Paris kicked off its fashion week.

It was in a large hangar, decorated in the brand’s colors -a lot of beige, some touches of grey-, on the outskirts of the city, that just over 300 guests gathered in front of the London Contemporary Orchestra and the soprano Nadine Sierra. . There are the friends of the house and of the Italian designer: the rappers Kanye West and Stormy Z, the singer Erykah Badu and the American actress Gillian Anderson… the parade, it is undoubtedly the Thai actor and singer Bright who wins.


This season, Riccardo Tisci has looked to the shores of his adopted country for inspiration. “English beaches are very interesting! They usually border a city, that’s why the dressing room adapts, you see people dressed for the night », explains the designer, at the helm of the British brand’s style for four years. On the catwalk, this gives unexpected mixes, especially if we imagine them worn on the sand: wide jeans with a beaded bra, transparent tulle dresses associated with denim jackets tied at the waist or even trench coats whose back is entirely worked in cotton towel. curly. .

youth and sensuality

Elements of lingerie also mark this wardrobe: wrinkled babydolls, in silk and lace, are associated with richly worked bras. There is also a punk dimension to some silhouettes, particularly the masculine ones, through t-shirts emblazoned with gothic script, baggy pants that fall to the hips, or even black fishnet tops.


The skin is the center of attention, with dresses very close to the body in perforated mesh or bare shoulders. “We are exploring a new sensuality, a certain awareness of the body. I was inspired by youth, those who are proud of who they are, of their identity. It’s modern, it’s fair and it’s Burberry.”, insists the creator. Points of humor placed here and there catch the eye: earrings, sunglasses or flip-flops shaped like a shark, a shoe clip like a beach buoy valve, bags worn on the arms like the bracelets we put on kids…

The latest silhouettes, worn by models who have been friends with the designer for a long time – the Russian Irina Shayk or the Italian Mariacarla Boscono – in total silence, impose a different tempo: long black velvet evening dresses that reveal the shoulders and accentuate the neckline. August 30th, Daily Women’s Clothing, an American newspaper specialized in the luxury and fashion sector, suggested that Riccardo Tisci, whose contract ends in early 2023, would be out. From there to see in these last dark and grandiloquent passages a goodbye…

Also read: Tear-Soaked Sequins at London Fashion Week

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